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Saturday, February 26, 2011

Amboise

I'm on my way to spend a week in the Loire Valley with my friend Cindy who has just arrived from Ithaca, NY.

We just had lunch at the Cabane a Huitres - yummm

We are now headed for the train station - on our way to Amboise where we'll be spending the week.

Stay tuned for photos and stories of French castles . . .

Friday, February 25, 2011

Venus in Pisces

"Half hour astro love check-in just $49." The email from astrologer Cindy Morris popped up in my inbox just before Valentine's Day. Why not check it out? I was planning to spend yet another Valentine's Day alone, might as well consult with my astrologer to see if she had any insights.

My first real exposure to astrology came in 2008. I was a skeptic - until I watched Carol have her chart read, followed by readings of her four skeptical grown children. The insights were uncanny. Then, supplying the exact time, date, and place of my birth, I had my own birth chart drawn and interpreted by two different astrologers. I was stunned by the specific details and resonance that I felt. The language of astrology with its planets and houses and ascendants still sounds like gobbledygook, but it has been around for centuries. There may be something to it . . .

I've never met Cindy in person. She always gives readings remotely, via the telephone, even if you live right next door in Boulder. So it doesn't matter that I am in Paris, I just call her up via Skype.

She started out by asking a few questions: "Are you currently in a relationship? How is the writing going?" Well . . I'm enjoying the writing, but the relationships don't seem to be going anywhere right now.

"Ah, we'll be talking about both writing and relationships," Cindy replied as she plunged into my reading.

"First of all, you have Uranus, the freedom planet, in the 7th (marriage) house - you'll probably never get married again. But you don't care, right?"

Well, gee, I guess not. After all, my whole trip to Paris is about being free and finding myself. Who knows what will happen next?

Cindy continued: "Love is all about the position of Venus and the Moon in your chart. Venus is what we love and what we are attracted to, and the Moon is our emotional nature and how we process that attraction. In your chart, Venus and the Moon are opposed rather than complementary. . . You have Venus in Pisces. This means that you are a romantic - probably more interested in the fantasy of a relationship than the everyday reality. Furthermore, your Venus in Pisces is in the third house - the house of writing and communication." (Suddenly, the connection with Dominique - which has been 95% via email and 5% in person - makes sense.)

"However, you have another strong influence that's been holding you back. Your Moon is in Virgo - and that puts on the brakes. It brings out your prudish, cautious, judgemental side. Your Venus may be attracted to someone much younger - but your Moon disapproves. (I think of Andrea . .) Ignore it! It's time for you to change. And why not? You are free. You're living in Paris for God's sake! Remember, you don't have to treat each man you meet as a potential husband. And that list of yours? Too long. Forget it!"

And so, as the reading ended, I was relieved and excited. According to the stars, I should spend less time in the library and more time out in the world. Don't think about finding a mate, just live each day as it comes, meet new people, and write. Probably good advice for anyone.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Cooking class

As I continue my exploration of Paris, I decided to try something different today. In addition to photography and writing classes, WICE offers drawing, painting, wine tasting and cooking classes. Why not? I always learn a thing or two and meet new people.

What fun! Today's class on was on cooking fresh fish and their sauces. I came away with some useful tips.

Dessert was creme caramel. When caramelizing the sugar - don't stir it!


The proper way to tie a bouquet garni - be sure to bend the parsley stalks - that's where the flavor lives


Always trim the fins from the tail toward the head


In the springtime your fish might come with roe. You can use the roe to create an appetizer: slit the membrane, scrape out the eggs with the back of the knife, mix them raw with lime juice, olive oil, parsley, salt, and pepper and let it stand for at least 10 minutes for the flavors to blend. Yumm.


The class, taught in English by a French instructor, is targeted to retired francophiles, or wives following husbands who are sent here on business.

Once upon a time I might have envied the wives with their tony expat apartments, exotic vacations, and generous benefits - so I was surprised to hear them talk about the lack of control over their lives. Their husbands are high-level pawns who may be moved at any time. And even though a Paris assignment is more attractive than, say, Dakar, many of these educated women are now reduced to appendages. Their visas do not allow them to work; they can only smile and follow two steps behind their husbands.

My apartment may be small and my budget is tight, but I am free.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Petra - Part 2

It started as an assignment for my photography class: "The Art of Photographing People." We worked with the technical aspects of angle, contrast, and composition; critiquing student examples in class, experimenting with cropping and color models.

"But photographing people is not about the technical aspects - you must try to find the essence of the person. And you should ask permission before taking the picture." Our instructor, Meredith Mullins, was adamant about this. "The other challenge is to capture the person or activity without the "say cheese" type of photo."

Petra proved to be a willing subject. He was delighted whenever he saw me approach with my camera. Furthermore, he somehow managed to convey through pantomime and fingers tracing tears down his cheeks, that he would send the photographs that I had taken to his mother still in Romania.


I try not to think about Petra's family - do the children go to school? Or do they also beg on street corners, or worse - pick pockets? I don't want to know, but I can't deny his humanity. He's not faking the blessings and gratitude that he bestows on me after I ask to see his book of Bible stories.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Surprises - part 3

Two weeks ago I stumbled upon Elvis in Paris. Last week I discovered a Mississippi river paddle boat sitting on the Seine. The Tennessee has a sister ship aptly named the Mississippi. Go figure.


They are both docked just down river from the Statue of Liberty and Eiffel Tower.

The food looks pretty good, but I don't think they offer gambling.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Saturday afternoon

Perhaps it was the second glass of red wine? A robust Cahors from southwest France. Or the garlicky mashed potatoes? Maybe it was the concert? Or all three? I finished the afternoon feeling warm, relaxed, and with a big smile on my face.

Paris is empty. It's the winter vacation - 2 weeks in February when school is closed and everything stops. My classes and choir practice have been suspended and all of my friends are out of town. I decided to brave the cold, rainy Saturday afternoon to go to a show recommended by Melissa and Paolo. The show is called VocaPeople. I was hoping to go there with Marc, a good-looking guy who sings bass in the choir, but I'm not sure if he is really interested (in me or in the concert). So why wait? I went to the last-minute ticket kiosk and scored a great seat at half price. Plus, I had time for lunch before the show.

The Plomb du Cantal is a brasserie just down the street from the theatre. I've noticed that it is always packed but have never eaten there. Why not try it?

Cantal is a sparsely populated region in southcentral France. It's known for its cows, cheeses, and sausages. The restaurant is a meat and potatoes kind of place, a specialty is the "aligot" - mashed potatoes mixed with local cheese and lots of garlic. Forget this place if you're looking for nouvelle cuisine or tiny portions. It's crowded and noisy and just what I needed to warm me up on a cold day.


And the concert? Great fun. See for yourself.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Nostalgia

Back in the days before Walmart and Monoprix - before our throw-away culture - we kept household items for a lifetime, maintaining them with the help of specialized tradesmen. And before the days of shopping centers, cars, and websites, the tradesmen came to us; announcing their passage with a distinctive call.

One morning on my way to class in the center of Paris, I was attracted by the sound of a bell. I made a slight detour to investigate and discovered this guy trolling for business, looking for scissors and knives to sharpen.


To be fair, I've seen a similar knife sharpener at the Boulder farmers market. But does he still wander the streets, ringing a distinctive reminder of his passage?
Listen for yourself.


p.s. I love the sounds of Paris, and I'll be including more sounds to give you a sense of the city.